Monday 31 August 2009

Be here now!

While writing here, I've tried to avoid naming the actual village we're staying in, although probably most people who read this blog know very well where it is. Not really sure why - maybe I had a fantasy that millions of people would read this and be driven to visit in hordes, overrunning the place and changing it from the quiet beautiful place it is into a kind of Blackpool-sur-Doustre. This doesn't seem to have happened yet, so I think I'm safe to risk it now.

The village is La Roche Canillac in south Correze. There are two good local websites where you can access more pictures and information about the village and surrounding area. The first is Doustre-Plateau-Etangs at http://www.cc-doustre-plateau-etangs.fr/hiver.php?men=45


The Doustre is the local river, most of the area is a plateau, and there are lots of etangs, hence the rather long-winded name - and as this is the official website for seven communes of which La Roche Canillac is the administrative centre - it was maybe a compromise title to avoid giving too much prominence to any one of the communes.

It's a rich and informative site, part translated into English and regularly updated, it includes a diary of events and activities, photos, local history and classified ads. The house we are staying in is in La Roche Basse, which is [obviously] in the low part of the village, below the plateau, on the side of the gorge, looking out over the valley of the Doustre.

The other good website is La Roche Canillac: Un siècle en images at http://www.canillac.fr/

This site includes over 400 photographs and 11 films showing life and events in the village from the beginning of the 20th Century. There are photographs of school classes dating back to 1911, as well as weddings, fetes, celebrations and sports all the way through the century. There are some wonderful wobbly videos showing people water skiing in costumes on the local lake, another of the day the cycling Tour de Correze came through the village - and the one I like best is also a bit bizarre, the 1960 annual fete complete with bullring and bull and what look like travelling toreadors and clowns tormenting a bull - check out http://www.canillac.fr/videos_346.htm Course de Torros. It also looks like some of the local lads had a go too, but the main impression is of blokes running about and jumping over fences, while the [quite small-looking] bull gallops about pretending to be fierce. As far as I can see, no animal-blood actually got spilled during the filming of this event, but I'm glad to report that it seems to have got the sharp point of its horn hooked into at least one lad's derriere.


There's a powerful sense of community and shared history in this site, not least because the larger national and international events although implicit, are kept in the background. You only need to remember the history of France in the 20th century to see the classes of 1911 and 1935 - the children's ages ranging from tiny tots to eleven year olds - in a very different light. And yet the ordinary life of the village goes on, and in the class of 1942 while war roared around them, the kids looking as lively, as naughty, as shy, as always - and inevitably there's one with her finger up her nose.


The other thing that strikes most strongly though, when you look at these pictures, this history, is not only the terrible change that war brings, but what has probably been the greater transformation in the last century - depopulation of the countryside and the move to the cities. The photographs and videos are full of fun and energy - showing the pride and beauty of this place - children, weddings, and of course, this being France, a page showing menus from the auberge and restaurant. On the 10th July 1926 they had Polarde Henri IV and Canard aux Olives. But they also record decline - loss. There is an elegiac feel to the photographs and films - look at what we had, they say, look at how we were. There is no auberge now, no restaurant, the school closed a few years ago and the few children are bussed elsewhere.


So the point of this posting is to say Viens ici maintenent! Come here now! Or Christmas. Or next year. This must be one of the loveliest places in France - with plenty of room! The French tourist season seems to last only 4-5 weeks which is a bit silly to tell you the truth, because the weather is good from about May to the end of September. Warm but not too hot, and with the occasional downpour and thunderstorm to keep it green. It may be quiet but it's not isolated - there are plenty of restaurants, markets and supermarkets within a short drive, you can walk, cycle, swim, canoe, or just look at the views and drink the very cheap wine.


In La Roche you can stay at La Clausure - a lovely chambre d'hotel/B&B/gite place in the village run by an English couple, Steve and Jo who are very helpful and welcoming. They speak English [obviously] and French - know all the local places and activities and their house, which is set in lovely grounds, has beautiful views and is walking distance from the lake and the centre of the village. It has B&B rooms, gite apartments for various size of groups as well as a barn gite for bigger groups. They also have hens, horses and friendly teenagers.

See their website at http://www.laclauzure.fr/

La Clauzure




Sadly, we'll be leaving soon - but you could come - for a week, a month, maybe even a year!

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